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  1. #11
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    I used my AbbaStand with front lift arm to drop my fork legs before i took them to Maxton.

    It raises the whole bike off the floor. I removed callipers first - zip-tied them to the radiator sides out of the way, then remove the mudguard - watch for the metal inserts falling out and finding their way into the nearest hole(!) then pull the axle and drop the front wheel - you'll need a big 14mm allen key socket for this.

    It took me about half an hour, and that's being careful, making sure the bits were stored in order and everything wrapped up for protection.


  2. #12
    Junior Member RTV's Avatar
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    My MT came (from the previous owner) with YSS shock and springs and have to say that I'm happy out with them, it's the Z-Series and they work just great. Easily adjustable and I think that they have a pretty good value


    - YSS Shock Absorbers


    Available from wemoto apparently.

    Cheers,
    Rami

  3. #13
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    Little update again!

    I decided to go with the Ktech IDS20 fork cartridges and Ktech springs.


    Ordered the cartridges from Omniaracing in Italy, Ktech won't sell them to you directly annoyingly, but I want to install them myself instead of paying £180 to JHS! I think I can do it fairly easily, I don't plan to change fork seals (which is what makes up part of the cost with JHS etc), I'll make a tool to hold the stock cartridges if necessary.

    Just waiting for things to arrive now.

    I plan to use 8.5N/mm springs. I haven't chosen my oil yet, but I want to use 16 to 17cst oil in the rebound leg, and perhaps a lighter ~10cst in the compression leg.

    I just need to find something in the UK which has these viscosity levels
    Last edited by Mikejbry; 07-15-2018 at 10:15 AM.

  4. #14
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    Ktech IDS20 cartridges are in with 8.5N springs.

    [email protected] Belray 2.5w in comp leg
    [email protected] Maxima 85/150 5w in reb leg

    Pattonme on the Fz09 forum recommends the above oil viscosities for road use.

    To make a stock cartridge holding tool you need 28mm OD tube, wall thickness was 1mm I think, I used steel tube from work, using an angle grinder I made 4 prongs to fix into the cup, worked perfectly.

    I set it up to the ktech reccomended settings:
    140mm air gap/oil level
    20 clicks out comp
    20 clicks out reb

    Very harsh over sharp bumps, I've knocked the comp down significantly and it's better, but I think I'll remove some oil and go with an air gap in the region of 150 to 160mm instead. Hopefully do it one night this week.

    If anyone is interested I'll write a "how to" along with what tools you will need.

    Cheers
    Mike

  5. #15
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    I have dropped my oil level to 160mm to help smooth out the harsh bumps, it has helped somewhat.

    • Total stanchion showing at full extension: 141mm
    • Assuming the same fork travel as OEM: 137mm


    76kg fully kitted up.
    My static sag figures are 41mm, so pretty much spot on, but I'm not using all of my travel.

    I knocked the compression adjuster out to 28 clicks from sully seated (out of 32) and I have 28mm of usable travel remaining. I'll do the next trip to work with it fully open, that may get me a few more mm of travel used.

    But I was under the impression that I should have 5mm left after a hard and bumpy ride. Leaving 5mm in the kitty for emergency bumps.

    My question for the suspension gurus out there is:

    Can I happily and safely mix a stock spring (7.5N?) in the compression leg with a KTech 8.5N spring in the rebound leg? In my mind it should not be a problem, forks only move in one axis of movement and you can add the spring stiffnesses together.

    This should get me roughly a 8N spring weight, I can adjust the preload equally to get back to the correct sag levels, but I should enable myself to use more travel.

    Does this sound like a good way to proceed?

    Cheers all.
    Mike

  6. #16
    Junior Member stevierst's Avatar
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    Iíve been reading up on this topic, and come to the conclusion that I canít justify spending a fortune on suspension (well SWMBO says Icanít!)
    Iíve fitted a zx6r shock, and itís made a big difference, but the front end is still rather poor.
    Iíve heard that you can fit the adjustable suspension top cap to the rebound leg, adjust oil weights, and make a difference. has anyone on here done it?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  7. #17
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    The forks currently are a massive improvement over stock, that goes without saying, this is just me trying to soften it up slightly.

    As for the left leg, you need more than just the top cap. It's a dummy leg, it doesn't have valving etc.

    If you do the second RH mod, you'd need to reshim both legs so as not to overdo the compression damping and tailor the rebound damping properly.

  8. #18
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    Another way of looking at it is:

    Ktech Razor R shock £594
    Ktech Ids20 plus springs £680
    Assorted tooling I didn't have for fork installation £100

    I would think that getting £550 for the fork cartridges, springs and top cap tool should be very easy.

    The shock I would hope for near £500 on eBay also.

    So the cost of owning these things is rather cheap if you are able to fit them yourself and flog them separately from the bike.

    Certainly less than a noisy exhaust system that you'll also have to flash the ECU for. Then as the bike is flashed to that exhaust you will also likely leave it on the bike when you sell it.

    That's how I justified it anyway...

 

 

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