ABS FULL Length Braided hoses


marksim

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At last ive finally got my Braided hoses for my ABS MT sorted
Sorry its took me so long to sort but here ya go.
I removed every bit of the standard pipes,which includes rubber then metal then back to rubber.

Just before i start i will state that you will have to remove the fuel tank and then airbox to remove and install new lines.
Also its abit awkward to remove the metal lines but you will manage with abit of wriggling.
Also removing the rubber to metal joining brackets is aright pain in the arse and you will need a small 8mm spanner for both front and rear.
Try not to damage any of the standard hose locating plastic rubber brackets as they can be used again with new lines.

FRONT

I went for the race setup which has a hose going from each caliper all the way back to the ABS box under the seat,and is therefore joined with a double banjo bolt but you can use the same one that linked the hoses on the L/H caliper.These 2 hoses i routed on the middle top of the radiator and fed along the inside frame on the L/H side to the ABS box.
The 3rd hose for the front is from the master cylinder direct to the ABS box.This i routed the same as the other 2 at the top of radiator but then when under headstock i routed to the R/H side of the inside frame to the ABS box.
You have to make sure the hoses are well tucked in as its a tight fit to get the airbox back but ive managed and also have a 12volt power lead plus all the ballast and cables from a Headlamp HID kit.Just be patient and take your time,Some silicon grease on the airbox inlet rubbers will help.
.
REAR

1 hose from the Caliper to the ABS box
! short hose from Master cylinder to ABS box.
Again its a fiddle removing the standard metal lines and where they pass through the under tray pull out the plastic rubber tab for more room.

Below are the length of hoses i ordered with the angles required,i have a Brembo master cylinder on mine which requires an extra 50mm of hose for the front but all the measurements below are for a STANDARD SETUP.

I used Hel for my Hoses as ive used before and can only recommend.
This is their contact number 01292 811601 but you can view online all their info and NO im not connected to them and get no freebies LOL


HOSE ANGLE LENGTH ANGLE

1 Front 20 degree 1260mm straight

2 Front 20 degree 1260mm 20 degree side

3 Front 20 degree 1430mm straight

4 Rear 45 degree 400mm 20 degree side

5 Rear 70 degree 720mm 20 degree side


With my order i also opted for 2 rubber grommets putting on each hose and had the ends shrink wrapped.
I chose Black lines with Gold Banjos.
Also 5 new Stainless Banjo bolts 1.25 thread,i used the standard banjo bolts on the ABS box including the double from the standard front caliper.
Total price was £154.95 shipped and came within 2 days.

Hope all this helps and you understand me cheers
 

FreakyFreak

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At last ive finally got my Braided hoses for my ABS MT sorted
Sorry its took me so long to sort but here ya go.
I removed every bit of the standard pipes,which includes rubber then metal then back to rubber.

Just before i start i will state that you will have to remove the fuel tank and then airbox to remove and install new lines.
Also its abit awkward to remove the metal lines but you will manage with abit of wriggling.
Also removing the rubber to metal joining brackets is aright pain in the arse and you will need a small 8mm spanner for both front and rear.
Try not to damage any of the standard hose locating plastic rubber brackets as they can be used again with new lines.

FRONT

I went for the race setup which has a hose going from each caliper all the way back to the ABS box under the seat,and is therefore joined with a double banjo bolt but you can use the same one that linked the hoses on the L/H caliper.These 2 hoses i routed on the middle top of the radiator and fed along the inside frame on the L/H side to the ABS box.
The 3rd hose for the front is from the master cylinder direct to the ABS box.This i routed the same as the other 2 at the top of radiator but then when under headstock i routed to the R/H side of the inside frame to the ABS box.
You have to make sure the hoses are well tucked in as its a tight fit to get the airbox back but ive managed and also have a 12volt power lead plus all the ballast and cables from a Headlamp HID kit.Just be patient and take your time,Some silicon grease on the airbox inlet rubbers will help.
.
REAR

1 hose from the Caliper to the ABS box
! short hose from Master cylinder to ABS box.
Again its a fiddle removing the standard metal lines and where they pass through the under tray pull out the plastic rubber tab for more room.

Below are the length of hoses i ordered with the angles required,i have a Brembo master cylinder on mine which requires an extra 50mm of hose for the front but all the measurements below are for a STANDARD SETUP.

I used Hel for my Hoses as ive used before and can only recommend.
This is their contact number 01292 811601 but you can view online all their info and NO im not connected to them and get no freebies LOL


HOSE ANGLE LENGTH ANGLE

1 Front 20 degree 1260mm straight

2 Front 20 degree 1260mm 20 degree side

3 Front 20 degree 1430mm straight

4 Rear 45 degree 400mm 20 degree side

5 Rear 70 degree 720mm 20 degree side


With my order i also opted for 2 rubber grommets putting on each hose and had the ends shrink wrapped.
I chose Black lines with Gold Banjos.
Also 5 new Stainless Banjo bolts 1.25 thread,i used the standard banjo bolts on the ABS box including the double from the standard front caliper.
Total price was £154.95 shipped and came within 2 days.

Hope all this helps and you understand me cheers
Glad you got all that sorted out! And what about the bleeding with ABS? Is it the same as without ABS? Doesn't it need to be primed by computer?

I'm getting mine fitted on Tuesday when I go do my 10000km service.

You could post some pics of the lines and the lines all fitted to get an idea of your setup!


FreakyFreak
 

colinlinz

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On most ABS systems you can use a scan tool to bleed the ABS unit. Other than that you can activate the ABS unit on the road, this will cycle the new clean fluid through the ABS unit. As a matter of service consideration this should be done on a regular basis. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and it will absorb water over time. The ABS unit isn't really something you want moisture building up in.
 

marksim

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Spoke to the yamaha mechanic today at J&S and he says just bleed the system thge same as non ABS and then ride.
Then check again.
Will try to post some pics later when i find how to do on here.
 

lee1980

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I certainly thought a lot about getting abs on mine for ease of maintenance with out it but then thought I ride all year etc best to have. Always wondered how you bleed abs brakes I guess if abs unit is full working then its a case of bleeding calipers as normal?
 

lee1980

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Spoke to the yamaha mechanic today at J&S and he says just bleed the system thge same as non ABS and then ride.
Then check again.
Will try to post some pics later when i find how to do on here.
If you reply in advanced mode you add pics in manage attachtments, then browse your device add them to list then upload.
 

colinlinz

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You can just bleed them, but in most cases I know of, that will leave old fluid in the valve body of the ABS unit. Cycling the ABS, either on the road, or with the diagnostic software will then purge the old fluid out of the valve body. I tried checking my service manual, but it hasn't got anything on the ABS system.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iSN2vc5-b0&spfreload=10
 

marksim

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Thanks for advice guys but surely with only 2000mls the old brake fluid will be still ok thats in the ABS system
I will bleed and then when the weather in the UK warms up ill run and re- bleed
Sometimes i wish i lived in Australia LOL
 

colinlinz

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More than likely. Normally you would replace it every two years, but under some conditions a shorter time frame could be needed.
Just while talking about brake fluid. I thought I'd mention types. I'm guessing Yamaha recommend DOT 4. Some people like to up spec the brake fluid. There is a DOT 5, but this isn't compatible with most bikes. It is a silicone fluid used by a very few manufacturers. It will destroy the seals in the system. There is a DOT 5.1, this is a conventional brake fluid, and will probably work fine.
Just another note. I've always used DOT 4, even when manufacturers recommended DOT 3. I've never had an issue with that, but a few years ago Toyota brought out a service bulletin saying they would not warrant failures of seals were DOT 4 had been used instead of DOT 3. Since then I've been a little more mindful of specified fluids.
Some years ago, when I was doing lots of track days on my Fireblade, I could notice the difference in brake performance with fluid changes of just every 3 or 4 months. I doubt you would on the road though.
 

marksim

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Yes your totally correct about the DOT 5
its silicon based and not to be mixed with any other.
Im gunna put DOT 5.1 in mine as its what ive always used and will mix ok with the DOT 4.
Infact it is ok to mix DOT 3,4 and 5.1 it will just at worse alter its boiling temperatures.
 


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