Franklinhornet
New member
My bike is 2wks old and 400 miles. Been on hwy under 5000 rpms. Am I rushing it. I got 200 miles to go before I reach the break-in period. Will I see a difference?
Breaking period
- Thread starter Franklinhornet
- Start date
Otters Pocket
Active member
What do you mean 'will I see a difference'?
A break in period is simply to allow the engine surfaces to mate properly and avoid premature damage due to stressing components. It doesn't somehow release more power if that's what you mean.
Nothing really changes afterwards except you can give it the full revs and enjoy full power properly.
The break in period is often misunderstood by people. The whole bike is new, and engine clearances need time to get into tolerance, gearbox components to bed into each other, brakes to bed in, tyres to scrub, suspension to settle. You slowly build up the rev's over time, but need to ensure you put the engine under load to bed the rings in. Nannying the engine is as bad as ragging it and also you should be varying rev's, not sat on the highway doing one speed in one gear for miles and miles. Take the twisty routes, work the engine through the gears, giving it decent load under acceleration but avoiding high revs.
People who say to give it the full beans from day 1 probably never hold on to a new bike long enough to see the damage they're doing long term. You can have tight spots in cam clearances etc, and very high revs causes heat to build up in those area's and cause massive premature wear. They will probably rag the bike around for the next couple of years and say on forums how it's never done them any harm, and then in a few years time someones complaining their second hand bike has developed a bad oil consumption or top end problems, all oblivious as to what's caused it.
A break in period is simply to allow the engine surfaces to mate properly and avoid premature damage due to stressing components. It doesn't somehow release more power if that's what you mean.
Nothing really changes afterwards except you can give it the full revs and enjoy full power properly.
The break in period is often misunderstood by people. The whole bike is new, and engine clearances need time to get into tolerance, gearbox components to bed into each other, brakes to bed in, tyres to scrub, suspension to settle. You slowly build up the rev's over time, but need to ensure you put the engine under load to bed the rings in. Nannying the engine is as bad as ragging it and also you should be varying rev's, not sat on the highway doing one speed in one gear for miles and miles. Take the twisty routes, work the engine through the gears, giving it decent load under acceleration but avoiding high revs.
People who say to give it the full beans from day 1 probably never hold on to a new bike long enough to see the damage they're doing long term. You can have tight spots in cam clearances etc, and very high revs causes heat to build up in those area's and cause massive premature wear. They will probably rag the bike around for the next couple of years and say on forums how it's never done them any harm, and then in a few years time someones complaining their second hand bike has developed a bad oil consumption or top end problems, all oblivious as to what's caused it.
the cueball
Member
Engine break in? Meh. Each to their own...
do what makes you feel better/happy/superior.
do what makes you feel better/happy/superior.
Otters Pocket
Active member
Check out this response to that exact video and why his testing is flawed -
I like this guy, knows what he's talking about (his job is failure analysis and has a background in engineering).
At least he actually explains why the break in is important, but obviously everyone should do their own research if they want to make a decision.
I'm not telling people what they should, it's your bike afterall, it's just my opinion.
All I'll say is this, you've just spent a load of cash (or financing at your own cost) on a brand new bike. Why risk damaging the engine internals instead of simply following the manufactures recommended run in procedure for a few hundred miles. It's not hard and the manufacturers know what they're talking about instead of some internet experts (including me
).So I agree, do what makes you feel happy.
the cueball
Member
This is one of those subjects that you’re either for or against... it’s like asking for a preferred tyre, oil or fuel.
I think Ducati have the right idea though, and I’m pretty sure in any of those factory tours/how it’s made programs show the same for the big 4 and BMW.
As you say, they probably know best...
I think Ducati have the right idea though, and I’m pretty sure in any of those factory tours/how it’s made programs show the same for the big 4 and BMW.
As you say, they probably know best...
Otters Pocket
Active member
Unfortunately this again throws people off the scent.
All manufacturers have to test their engines, and they don't have the time or money to run it in before it goes out the door, so they do a quick couple of blasts like that just to ensure it's all tested fully. All the manufacturers do that with the engines, not just Ducati.
It's more a necessary evil than an example of what to do once you get the bike. Like the race bikes, they have a very quick procedure for blasting an engine up to speed, but they rebuild them regularly and don't expect them to run back and forth to work for the next 20 years
However, I agree with you that this is one of those polarizing subjects that I don't think either side will agree on, so one of those agree to disagree moments
All manufacturers have to test their engines, and they don't have the time or money to run it in before it goes out the door, so they do a quick couple of blasts like that just to ensure it's all tested fully. All the manufacturers do that with the engines, not just Ducati.
It's more a necessary evil than an example of what to do once you get the bike. Like the race bikes, they have a very quick procedure for blasting an engine up to speed, but they rebuild them regularly and don't expect them to run back and forth to work for the next 20 years
However, I agree with you that this is one of those polarizing subjects that I don't think either side will agree on, so one of those agree to disagree moments
the cueball
Member
Passes the time during ‘lockdown’ though... lol
So would you walk away from buying a bike if you knew it hadn’t been run in as per the manual?
Is there a point that it wouldn’t matter to you?
for example... my 100k 30 year old Pan wasn’t run in properly, Would that stop you buying it?
(Obviously you would really, really need to want a 30 year old high mileage tourer!!)*
*it’s not for sale though, love that bike!
So would you walk away from buying a bike if you knew it hadn’t been run in as per the manual?
Is there a point that it wouldn’t matter to you?
for example... my 100k 30 year old Pan wasn’t run in properly, Would that stop you buying it?
(Obviously you would really, really need to want a 30 year old high mileage tourer!!)*
*it’s not for sale though, love that bike!
Otters Pocket
Active member
Lol, yeah gives us something to keep the boredom at bay
It's a good question, hard to answer I guess. My original post on here is aimed more at first timers who've never run an engine in before and want the 'factory' way of doing it. I don't have a huge issue with people doing their own thing, just nice to give all the advice from both sides and let the individual decide which they want to follow I guess. Certainly nothing aimed personally at your posts by the way, hope that was clear
For the most part buying second hand means you never know how it's been run in, but i'll be honest that for second hand I always go for one with a good service history if I can. By that I don't even mean dealer or garage FSH, but where it's obvious the owner knows what they're doing and has kept receipts etc. I think the 'feeling' that the owner is the sort that has mechanical sympathy would probably be more important than someone getting a full dealer stamped history but mentions how he can get really long wheelies on it.
My Tracer I got from a guy I knew from another forum, and I know he's massively anal about looking after his stuff (in a good way). The bike was 3 years old but looked like it had come out of the showroom and had meticulous notes for all work done to it.
That said, I also have a 1986 FJ1200 that I bought to restore, with 100k on the clock, no history at all and looked like it'd spent the last 5 winters parked in a salt storage shed So I guess if the price is right anything can be worth it.
It's a good question, hard to answer I guess. My original post on here is aimed more at first timers who've never run an engine in before and want the 'factory' way of doing it. I don't have a huge issue with people doing their own thing, just nice to give all the advice from both sides and let the individual decide which they want to follow I guess. Certainly nothing aimed personally at your posts by the way, hope that was clear
For the most part buying second hand means you never know how it's been run in, but i'll be honest that for second hand I always go for one with a good service history if I can. By that I don't even mean dealer or garage FSH, but where it's obvious the owner knows what they're doing and has kept receipts etc. I think the 'feeling' that the owner is the sort that has mechanical sympathy would probably be more important than someone getting a full dealer stamped history but mentions how he can get really long wheelies on it.
My Tracer I got from a guy I knew from another forum, and I know he's massively anal about looking after his stuff (in a good way). The bike was 3 years old but looked like it had come out of the showroom and had meticulous notes for all work done to it.
That said, I also have a 1986 FJ1200 that I bought to restore, with 100k on the clock, no history at all and looked like it'd spent the last 5 winters parked in a salt storage shed
So I guess if the price is right anything can be worth it.
the cueball
Member
Nothing taken personally, don’t worry about that...
Don’t get me started on main dealer service history! Lol
I would much rather have a nice folder full of receipts and a bike that is obviously in good condition than a couple of stamps in a book.
how is the FJ coming on? Have you started it yet, or (like so many of mine) it’s a one day kind of thing?
Don’t get me started on main dealer service history! Lol
I would much rather have a nice folder full of receipts and a bike that is obviously in good condition than a couple of stamps in a book.
how is the FJ coming on? Have you started it yet, or (like so many of mine) it’s a one day kind of thing?
Otters Pocket
Active member
FJ is going ok, although long old road. Like you say one day at a time when I have the time.
I got it about a year ago and have done a nut and bolt strip down of the frame and a head rebuild for the engine. It's all back together and running nice now, so it's on to the plastics.
A lot of broken parts to repair and then a complete respray needed, but I'm in no rush.
If you're interested for a bit of lockdown reading I post up a bit of a blog on it on the FJ forum - http://www.fjfjrbiker.co.uk/index.php?topic=24898.0
I don't post often, just a bit of an update to it now and again, but the pictures show it's progress. Also have a 97 ZRX1100 which is a bit of garage queen and only comes out on dry summer days. I wanted one for years but couldn't afford one when they initially came out. Sort of forgot about them then until a few years ago when I saw one come up on ebay and had to get it. Nice 'modern classic' and back to basics, sort of how bikes should be IMO if you know what I mean.
Sorry, a bit off topic there
I got it about a year ago and have done a nut and bolt strip down of the frame and a head rebuild for the engine. It's all back together and running nice now, so it's on to the plastics.
A lot of broken parts to repair and then a complete respray needed, but I'm in no rush.
If you're interested for a bit of lockdown reading I post up a bit of a blog on it on the FJ forum - http://www.fjfjrbiker.co.uk/index.php?topic=24898.0
I don't post often, just a bit of an update to it now and again, but the pictures show it's progress. Also have a 97 ZRX1100 which is a bit of garage queen and only comes out on dry summer days. I wanted one for years but couldn't afford one when they initially came out. Sort of forgot about them then until a few years ago when I saw one come up on ebay and had to get it. Nice 'modern classic' and back to basics, sort of how bikes should be IMO if you know what I mean.
Sorry, a bit off topic there
the cueball
Member
Ah, need to be registered to see that thread unfortunately...
Good choice in the old Kawasaki though...
no need to convince me of old school basic bikes, the MT is my newest and I turn everything off I can, I prefer analogue too...
Good choice in the old Kawasaki though...
no need to convince me of old school basic bikes, the MT is my newest and I turn everything off I can, I prefer analogue too...
I've had several new bikes. the running is just a guide. so you don't fook the motor up.
doing the miles is not important but what is important is up/down the gears more often.
doing long motorway miles is a waste of time. you need to bed the gears in.
just dont cane it and you'll be fine.
I keep most of my bikes about 3- 4 years never had an issue.
my current bike is a tracer 900.
hopefully if all goes well will get an MT09 but got a few questions to ask before I take the plunge.
doing the miles is not important but what is important is up/down the gears more often.
doing long motorway miles is a waste of time. you need to bed the gears in.
just dont cane it and you'll be fine.
I keep most of my bikes about 3- 4 years never had an issue.
my current bike is a tracer 900.
hopefully if all goes well will get an MT09 but got a few questions to ask before I take the plunge.