MT09 SP engine light on, and no response from the bike when I attempt to start.


Kcolo

New member
Hi,

I am hoping someone on this forum may share some wisdom with me here please.

BIKE HISTORY
--------------
1. Bike is only 6 months old with 1,300km done and the bike is garaged when not in use.
2. Last time I drove/started the bike before the issue was 4 weeks ago.

3. Last week, started the bike without issue and travelled 30 km on country roads before stopping at a garage to get some petrol.
4. Turned bike off and and filled tank with petrol. (All going well up to this point)

5. Turned the key in the ignition to the ON position and then noticed the Engine Warning Light been displayed on the dash. This was the first time this Engine Warning Light has ever came on the control dash.
6. I then attempt to Start the bike via the Start button.
7. There was absolutely no response from the bike barr a tiny click noise originating from around the battery area of the bike when I push the start button. Bike will not crank up at all.

Lights on the control dash are working, indicators working , back light working but there is no front light.
Checked a few fuses and they looked ok but to be honest I am novice when it comes to bikes.
No visible loose connections.

8. The AA guy tried twice jumping the bike and this action also failed to make a positive impact. He also disconnected the negative cable from the battery for a few minutes. But again the engine warning light remains visible and no response from the engine.



QUESTIONS:
--------------
Would this be a case of a depleted battery?
Would a depleted battery trigger the engine warning light to come on?
Or would this be some sort of electrical short that is preventing the bike from starting up?


Sorry for asking these types of questions but I would really like to know what triggered the engine waring light to come on and why the bike wont start.


Cheers,
Kevin
 

olivierzx

Member
All is linked to the battery.
If voltage is too low when trying to start, ECU will light on the engine light and avoid start.
Disconnecting the battery is not resetting the warning light, you must go to your dealer to do so. (Computer plugged under seat)

A way to force the start is to shunt the starting relay with a fork-wrench.
 

Kcolo

New member
Hi Oliverzx

Many thanks Oliverzx for taking time out and replying to my questions.

Your answer makes sence and gives me pice of mind before the bike goes from the AA breakdown guys compound to the dealership this Wednesday.

There has been no garage open since the Christmas holidays commenced and I did not have any tools to check the voltage myself.

Since this incident occurred last week I bought myself a battery charger and a multimeter to check voltage.

Once the dealer sorts it out I will post here.

Oliverzx thank you very much for your help. (y)(y)(y)

Kevin
 

Kcolo

New member
Edited 06th March 2019

Finally got the bike sorted out.


RESULT:
--------

Battery was fine but the problem was with the solenoid. Once the solenoid was replaced the bike started without issue.

CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM:
-----------------------

99.9% sure it was the Starter switch got stuck in the start position resulting in frying the solenoid.


ACTION TAKEN:
---------------

  1. Clean the starter switch.
  2. Replace the Solenoid.
  3. Remove the Engine Warning Light and clear the two errors (P0335) and (P01602) with ODB2 scanner.
Final Result:
Bike back to normal and no engine warning light.




ADDITIONAL INFO:
------------------

TOOLS USED:
Yamaha OBD2 Harness Type 1
http://www.woolichracing.co.uk/products/yamaha/mt-09-sp/2018/963/yamaha-obd2-harness-type-1.aspx

ODB2 Diagnostic Scanner (Basic)
http://www.woolichracing.co.uk/products/yamaha/mt-09-sp/2018/789/odb2-diagnostic-scanner-basic.aspx


FAULT CODE:
-------------
P0335

ITEM:
--------

Crankshaft position sensor (no normal signals are recieved from the crankshaft position sensor)

PROBABLE CAUSE OF MALFUNCTION:
------------------------------

Deactive coupler between crankshaft position sensor and ECU.
Open or short circut in wire harness between crankshaft position sensor and ECU.
Improperly installed crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in generator rotor.
Defective crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.

VEHICLE SYMPTOM:
----------------

Engine cannot be started.


FAIL-SAFE SYSTEM OPERATION:
--------------------------

Does not operate.
ISC feedback is not carried out.
ISC learning is not carried out.


FAULT CODE:
-----------
P01602

ITEM:
-----------

Malfunction in ECU internal circuit (malfunction of ECU power cut-off function)

PROBABLE CAUSE OF MALFUNCTION:
------------------------------

Open or short circuit in wire harness between ECU and battery.
Open or short circuit in wire harness between ECU and main switch.
Blown Backup fuse.
Malfunction in ECU.

VEHICLE SYMPTOM:
----------------

Engine idling speed is unstable.
Engine idling speed is high.
Increased exhaust emissions.
Engine is difficult to start.

FAIL-SAFE SYSTEM OPERATION:
--------------------------

02 feedback learning is not carried out.
02 feedback learning value is not written.




Thanks everybody. (y)(y)(y)(y)
 
Last edited:

Littlebruv

Member
Does anyone know how to reset the engine warning light after accidentally running the bike in gear whilst on the main stand, this was first due after having to refit a fully charged battery
 

Kcolo

New member
Hi.
After I was told there was only one place in Ireland where I could get the engine light turned off i.e. the main Yamaha dealer I did some digging around.

A company in the UK has the tools to remove an engine light for the 2018 model. I emailed them and they replied back confirming they have the reader and connection cable. About 70 or 80 euro in total depending on your postal location. Also if u stall the bike the engine light will turn on.

Basic obd tool and Yamaha ODB cable is one option they have for the removal of an engine light . Just send them an email.

Below is the URL to the company and other products they offer.

http://www.woolichracing.co.uk/products/yamaha/mt-09-sp/yamaha-mt-09-sp-ecu-flashing.aspx#productTable

Hope this helps
 
Last edited:

Littlebruv

Member
Hi.
After I was told there was only one place in Ireland where I could get the engine light turned off i.e. the main Yamaha dealer I did some digging around.

A company in the UK has the tools to remove an engine light for the 2018 model. I emailed them and they replied back confirming they have the reader and connection cable. About 70 or 80 euro in total depending on your postal location. Also if u stall the bike the engine light will turn on.

Basic obd tool and Yamaha ODB cable is one option they have for the removal of an engine light . Just send them an email.

Below is the URL to the company and other products they offer.

http://www.woolichracing.co.uk/products/yamaha/mt-09-sp/yamaha-mt-09-sp-ecu-flashing.aspx#productTable

Hope this helps
Many thanks for the quick reply, i will have a look
 

foureyes

New member
@Kcolo ...Hi. You might find the problem is actually the starter switch sticking as you start it. The switch might not return to the run position straight away which means the starter relay stays energised. Mine's done it. I've freed up the switch but the relay is dead. I've seen videos online of people stripping and cleaned the switch but I took mine completely apart. The red button fits too tight to the black housing.
 

Kcolo

New member
@foureyes , hi and thank you for your update.

For sure I will take the starter switch apart this weekend and double check if there is anything obstructing the switch mechanism.

Honestly I have never really kept an eye on the position of the starter switch once I select RUN but in future foureyes I will.

Really don't want a repeat of this, as it just takes ages to get stuff fixed here in Ireland. (Due to my remote location)

At this stage I just want to start enjoying the bike for a change.

Sound one @foureyes
Kevin
 

kev

Member
Finally got the bike sorted out.


RESULT:
Battery was fine but the problem was with the solenoid.

Once the solenoid was replaced the bike started without issue.


The engine warning light remains on but this will be sorted when the bike is brought to the only Yamaha place in the country that has the software to remove the engine light.

Apparently the 2018 software is different to previous models so the idea acquiring an OBD2 tool from the likes of amazon to remove the engine warning is not an option.

Thanks everybody. (y)(y)(y)(y)
I'm having the same problem, just ordered a solenoid of ebay, I spoke to a Yamaha dealer today and he said that a solenoid failure was unheard of on a new (18 months) bike? the problem I have is getting the bike to them leaving it for a couple of days then getting it back, so for £17 I'll get it going and take to them and get the engine warning turned off, also take the duff solenoid and let them "test" it and maybe get a new one fitted at a later date.
 

Kcolo

New member
I'm having the same problem, just ordered a solenoid of ebay, I spoke to a Yamaha dealer today and he said that a solenoid failure was unheard of on a new (18 months) bike? the problem I have is getting the bike to them leaving it for a couple of days then getting it back, so for £17 I'll get it going and take to them and get the engine warning turned off, also take the duff solenoid and let them "test" it and maybe get a new one fitted at a later date.
I'm having the same problem, just ordered a solenoid of ebay, I spoke to a Yamaha dealer today and he said that a solenoid failure was unheard of on a new (18 months) bike? the problem I have is getting the bike to them leaving it for a couple of days then getting it back, so for £17 I'll get it going and take to them and get the engine warning turned off, also take the duff solenoid and let them "test" it and maybe get a new one fitted at a later date.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Kev,
Hope you get your solenoid and get you back on the road.

kev in relation to your comment, "Yamaha dealer today and he said that a solenoid failure was unheard of on a new (18 months) bike".

Yamaha used the exact same words when communicating to my dealer back in early January in relation to the 2018 model.

After Yamaha finally accepted the issue was a solenoid failure they did supply a free replacement.

Sound one kev.
 

kev

Member
The solenoid came today, off ebay, started first press but engine light stays on, going to arrange to take it to Hull, to get light turned off, and give them the solenoid, hopefully they will fit a new one at a later date as not leaving bike with them for a couple of days as that was what they said it would take to sort out with Yamaha? I don't mind going out that way as it's on the way to the coast and the road from Hornsea to Withernsea is ace.
 

Kcolo

New member
The solenoid came today, off ebay, started first press but engine light stays on, going to arrange to take it to Hull, to get light turned off, and give them the solenoid, hopefully they will fit a new one at a later date as not leaving bike with them for a couple of days as that was what they said it would take to sort out with Yamaha? I don't mind going out that way as it's on the way to the coast and the road from Hornsea to Withernsea is ace.
Hi Kev.

That good news for you.

kev can you do me a favor please, when you take the bike to Hull to get the engine light taken off can you find out if they are using a ordinary ODB tool and yamaha ODB cable to remove the engine light.

At the moment I am just waiting to get paid next week so I can buy the Basic ODB tool and Yamaha ODB cable from http://www.woolichracing.co.uk .

The reason I ask Kev is my Yamaha dealer said only our main Yamaha dealer can remove the engine light for an incident like a broken solenoid.
But Woolich racing over in the UK said to me " their ODB tool will remove an engine light on a 2018 model".

Sound one Kev.
 

foureyes

New member
Ooo... I went to School in Hornsea! Er... about 30 years ago!

So, the switch. There is a video online showing how to disassemble it. He goes on to explain about the amount of grease inside slowing the mechanism down and elsewhere someone has fitted a beefier spring... but when I took mine apart I noticed the action was stiff to manually slide regardless of grease or spring being in there. I've attached a couple of pictures... one showing the contact part from inside removed and another showing the red button still gripping to the black housing when turned upside down.

To me the red button should be smooth sliding fit on the black housing. You can see a bit of red plastic had come off the button too. I filed a bit of the black away that was causing the bind against the button. I also filed a bit off the contact moulding and the gradient that the sprung loaded ball rides over to ease the release back to the run position. That would probably be clearer once you've taken it apart.

I can't guarantee doing this... all I can say is my switch is now moving. But the shop might change it anyway when its there getting the solenoid swapped. For you guys out of warranty it might be worth a shot.


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5826
 

fizzy

Member
Hi Kev.

That good news for you.

kev can you do me a favor please, when you take the bike to Hull to get the engine light taken off can you find out if they are using a ordinary ODB tool and yamaha ODB cable to remove the engine light.

At the moment I am just waiting to get paid next week so I can buy the Basic ODB tool and Yamaha ODB cable from http://www.woolichracing.co.uk .

The reason I ask Kev is my Yamaha dealer said only our main Yamaha dealer can remove the engine light for an incident like a broken solenoid.
But Woolich racing over in the UK said to me " their ODB tool will remove an engine light on a 2018 model".

Sound one Kev.
I have a basic odb reader off eBay (£13) and the adapter cleared my fault codes with no problems on my 2018 SP
 

kev

Member
Hi Kev.

That good news for you.

kev can you do me a favor please, when you take the bike to Hull to get the engine light taken off can you find out if they are using a ordinary ODB tool and yamaha ODB cable to remove the engine light.

At the moment I am just waiting to get paid next week so I can buy the Basic ODB tool and Yamaha ODB cable from http://www.woolichracing.co.uk .

The reason I ask Kev is my Yamaha dealer said only our main Yamaha dealer can remove the engine light for an incident like a broken solenoid.
But Woolich racing over in the UK said to me " their ODB tool will remove an engine light on a 2018 model".

Sound one Kev.
will ask when I go, not in any hurry as got another bike.
 

kev

Member
will ask when I go, not in any hurry as got another bike.
I went and had new solenoid fitted today, I did ask but was told that they used a Yamaha program, connected a laptop between the ODB tool and lead to read fault code and turn light off, I was lost by this time, lol. sorry not much help. They claimed 0.25 hours to sort it.
 

Kcolo

New member
Ooo... I went to School in Hornsea! Er... about 30 years ago!

So, the switch. There is a video online showing how to disassemble it. He goes on to explain about the amount of grease inside slowing the mechanism down and elsewhere someone has fitted a beefier spring... but when I took mine apart I noticed the action was stiff to manually slide regardless of grease or spring being in there. I've attached a couple of pictures... one showing the contact part from inside removed and another showing the red button still gripping to the black housing when turned upside down.

To me the red button should be smooth sliding fit on the black housing. You can see a bit of red plastic had come off the button too. I filed a bit of the black away that was causing the bind against the button. I also filed a bit off the contact moulding and the gradient that the sprung loaded ball rides over to ease the release back to the run position. That would probably be clearer once you've taken it apart.

I can't guarantee doing this... all I can say is my switch is now moving. But the shop might change it anyway when its there getting the solenoid swapped. For you guys out of warranty it might be worth a shot.


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Sorry about the late reply @foureyes.

I am 99.9% sure now that the problem originated from the started switch.
I check the switch and it was not going back fully to the neutral position so chances are this was the reason the solenoid got fried.
I took the started switch apart and cleaned it down.
The switch is moving back more freely now.

Many thanks @foureyes
 


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