Tracer headshake cure.


Mr. Funtcase

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Hi all, new to the forums but I thought i'd share my experience with the dreaded tracer high speed wobble that some, but not all experience.

I generally ride 2-up, often with luggage as we do a lot of touring and suffered problems with the factory setup resulting in a vague front end under hard overtaking acceleration, causing a slow weave that developed into a more violent 'brown trousers' headshake if pushed into.

I've made some easy to do changes that have cured the problem totally.

1.Binned the handguards.

2.Changed the stock screen for an Ermax touring screen.

3.Dropped the forks 15-20mm.

I'm 6ft 1 and i'm pretty sure the problem was caused by turbulence rolling off the screen and guards, hitting my shoulders and head, causing a lot of 'chop' and transferring down to the bars. With the ermax screen and no guards I get nice clean air washing over my lid and hardly any turbulence.

My suspension is all stock, max preload on the front and 7 clicks out from full clockwise. Rear is usually left set at 1 back from max preload and 1 3/4 turns out from max rebound. Once i've got the money the rear shock will be changed, it aint all that good.

I've also added good ol' fashioned heavy weights to the ends of the bars and grip puppies that have removed the fatigue causing hand buzz you get after a good long while in the seat.

Bootwise i'm running Dunlop sportmax sportsmart which in my opinion are excellent all round tyres.

Rock solid at 3 figure speeds, solo or loaded up.

Btw I think the tracer is one of the best bikes i've owned.

I'd love some feedback and to hear about other peoples wobbles.
 

Mr. Funtcase

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Technically I suppose it's really raising the forks up through the yokes, but i've always known it as 'dropping the forks'.

Think the exact measurement ended up being 18mm, no science behind that particular figure.

For those interested I strapped the handlebars to an overhead joist in my garage, released the all the yoke clamps and let the front end down via the strap. The right hand fork slid up easily but the left was a little reluctant so i clamped the right hand top clamp at about the height i wanted and then helped the other along until they were exactly the same (used vernier caliper), tightened both top clamps then released the strap, climbed on with the bike still on the centre stand and bounced my weight directly over the shocks with the front wheel dead ahead to 'settle' the front before doing up the bottom clamps.
 

Mr. Funtcase

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I should say 'raising the forks up through the yoke (triple t)', but i've always known it as 'dropping the forks'.

Really easy job, strapped the handlebars to a roof joist in my garage, loosened off all the yoke clamps and carefully lowered the front down. Right hand fork slid through easily but the left was reluctant so I tightened the top right clamp at about the height I wanted then helped the other along by hand until they were exactly equal (used a vernier caliper), tightened up both top clamps then 'settled' the forks by bouncing my weight directly over the front of the bike with the wheel dead ahead, then tightened the bottom clamps up. Simples.
 

Laffli

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I cured mine with a gpr steering damper, so no more front end wobbles for me.
 

Laffli

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I was lucky got mine for £320 cos they priced them wrong on website.
 

trevorleigh

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I removed the hand guards on day one, as I did not like the looks of them and have had no issue with the wobbles, until I re-fitted them for a longish winter ride then noticed what people were talking about. Removed them as soon as I got back.
 

qual

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Just taken my hand guards off , what bar end weights did you fit on ??
 

andz

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I just took my hand guards off as well and fitted the naked MT-09 bar end weights.
 

TRA

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Fwiw, mine didn't wobble unless I had the panniers on and the rear suspension softened so it actually worked (and I'm bloody heavy). It wouldn't shake under normal conditions even the, but as soon as I got behind a vehicle in the dirty air it was unstable (being kind).

So, as the suspension bedded in I cranked it up both ends. Rear put back to #4 with 1/3 turn more rebound damping, front 5 turns of preload and 3 clicks of rebound from standard. Seems to have killed the wobbling, though I do agree the slight instability remaining is probably due to the handguards. Once again, it's only noticeable behind a vehicle at freeway speeds in dirty air.
 

sharpoleeds1

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Just removed my 2016 Tracer 900 handguards and. Exchanged them for the latest ones, just because I wanted slimmer bars for filtering through traffic. They are mint if anyone needs a complete set from the inner thread, to the end bolt and all the attachments. Open to offers? I can’t upload photos as file too large, but in mint condition. PS mine have never caused any speed weaves despite 3000 miles in 3 weeks through Europe.
 

Littlebruv

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I replaced the original handguards for Puig ones on my 2017 Tracer 900, it has made a bit of a difference so far even when loaded with luggage. suspension wise i just upped the rear standard suspension to 4
 
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sharpoleeds1

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I replaced the original handguards for Puig ones on my 2017 Tracer 900, it has made a bit of a difference so far even when loaded with luggage. suspension wise i just upped the rear standard suspension to 4
Ps I dropped my forks 5mm and it puts more weight on the front end for a more sports bike feel. I have Adrianni forks and Ktec rear shock. All in all spot on with 2018 hand guards about £220 from Yam dealer.
 

Greenman41

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I have the Ermax touring screen and KTM handguards on my 2017. It used to start weaving at about a ton before the changes, now it doesn’t though I wouldn’t say it feels really solid and planted and that’s with Hyperpro fork springs and shock. Last summer I rode without handguards and had no problems.

Before I fitted the Hyperpro kit I tried raising the forks through the yokes by about 10mm but it didn’t improve things.
 


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