up and down and bouncy bits


Not a sexual refference but I've just got my late 2014 street rally and the bloke before me has been playing, BADLY, I'm not interested in standard settings as I know its too soft what does the forum feel is the best settings front and rear. Cheers.
By the way I'm new so be gentle with me.
 

Jetty

New member
For a start...everyone is different. So no setting is incorrect, and no one can tell you what to set yours at. If you firstly set the sag/pre-load front and back, then adjust front/back rebound until it suits, then the other. (Not at the same time or else you can get too confused). There's so much to consider with suspension: Your weight. Your riding style. The road surface, albeit generally in your area or wherever you're particularly going. Around Europe, for example, I choose a harder setting over the really, really rubbish roads around where I live in the UK.

Any good?
 

chump

New member
front and rear damping needs to be between half a turn and one turn out from full in. More than a turn out and it doesn't really do anything much. preload - stock for me.
 
front and rear damping needs to be between half a turn and one turn out from full in. More than a turn out and it doesn't really do anything much. preload - stock for me.
So do you mean take it back to standard settings then just alter the rebound damping to 1/2 turn front and 1 turn rear?
 

Fulfilled-09

New member
Only with uprated performance springs and oil, is the front end infinitely better. Tons more confidence to brake hard on the front now.
 

Fulfilled-09

New member
MD Racing in Surrey (superb, by the way) did my suspension. Front end with springs, oil and bespoke airgap was about £300. Rear end and set up for my weight with gear on was about £700.
 
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chump

New member
At the mo I can live with the rear and maybe up grade to zx10 or r1 shocker its front I have no confidence in. how much did your front end cost
Revalving my own forks, the cost is around £250 including springs, oil and valve kit.

Alternatively you could buy the Andreani cartridges for a little over £400. You then need them fitted.
 
Revalving my own forks, the cost is around £250 including springs, oil and valve kit.

Alternatively you could buy the Andreani cartridges for a little over £400. You then need them fitted.
wHICH SPRINGS YOU USING i UPRATED MY OLD BIKE FORNT END USING HAGON PROGRESSIVE AND SLIGHTLY THICKER OIL AND THEY WERE BRILL.
 

chump

New member
wHICH SPRINGS YOU USING i UPRATED MY OLD BIKE FORNT END USING HAGON PROGRESSIVE AND SLIGHTLY THICKER OIL AND THEY WERE BRILL.
I used Sonic springs from the US. This time I will be buying K-tech springs, which were not available last time round.

Always go linear, never progressive.
 
The 2014 mt-09s are using 75kg/cm fork springs. I've change them for the Ohlins 90kg/cm springs with sae 5 fork oil for road use. There are no more need to preload the springs and the front is sharper in turns and stiffer when braking.. then the adjustment of rebound is more specific and positive.
Allthough if your body weight is less than 70kg the standard springs is OK and you need only a thicker fork oil to help fork become stiffer..
ZX10R '08-'10 rear shock is the "best value for money" sollution for MT's rear suspension.
Then its easy to reach the limits of your rear tyre in everyday commute..!
 
fork springs

The 2014 mt-09s are using 75kg/cm fork springs. I've change them for the Ohlins 90kg/cm springs with sae 5 fork oil for road use. There are no more need to preload the springs and the front is sharper in turns and stiffer when braking.. then the adjustment of rebound is more specific and positive.
Allthough if your body weight is less than 70kg the standard springs is OK and you need only a thicker fork oil to help fork become stiffer..
ZX10R '08-'10 rear shock is the "best value for money" sollution for MT's rear suspension.
Then its easy to reach the limits of your rear tyre in everyday commute..!
I rebuilt the front forks of my old bike no probs but ive never dealt with cartridge forks before. Is it simply take the pressure of the springs unscrew the fork tops then take of the rods then drain the oil then take old springs out and put the new ones in then top up with new oild connect the fork tops then adjust once back on the bike?
 

chump

New member
No.

You need a spring compressor to compress the spring before you can remove the fork cap, remove the spacer and spring, empty the oil, refill and set air gap. Then fit the spring and spacer, compress the spring again and refit the cap.

You have to set the cap at the correct height on the rod in order to not screw up the amount of rebound damping adjustment.
 

Greenman41

New member
The spring compressor. I recommend using two ratchet straps, relying on one and the strap tension equalising doesn’t work well.58545854
 


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