cam chain fix

[tox]

I have fixed my cam chain. Its easy, but will probably void warrenty but I'm tired of waiting for the shop.Ok. I'm still waiting on a backorder tensioner. So I fixed the problem myself. You need an inch long bolt same pitch as the middle cam one you take out and a couple of nuts to lock it home. So I had taken out the middle bolt, applied an allen key to tighten the adjusting screw (hand tight only). Then back the screw out 1/4 turn. The new bolt then goes where the old short bolt was and is locked down. Hand tight. The problem with the original bolt is the screw starts to back itself out after a while.I have posted this elsewhere first, but thought more people might benefit from a new thread.

 

[Birdy]

Has it worked tox ? Not had rattle myself [yet] You aussies are a brave/reckless bunch lol !

 

[tox]

Yes. Worked a treat.

 

[misscrabstick]

Yes. Worked a treat.

Hey Tox, have you had the tensioner out from the block? i am wondering exactly whats inside the damn thing that goes wrong, you mention a hex bolt inside the body accessed when you remove the 10 mm headed central bolt? what does this bear against? a spring? or the plunger itself? I am also wondering what they use to keep the tensioner out once its moved out, i keep hearing this half nut term bandied about, I did wonder of it was some sort of wedge/collet thing.

Mine has just started rattling, I am not near a service time yet and don't fancy a trip to the dealers just for this if i can do a temp fix on it until service time, how did your mod hold out?

Cheers Lucy

 

[tox]

Take out the 10mm bolt and get alonger one with a nut. Under that bolt there is a threaded adjuster with an allen key. Can't remember what size allen key. There are several schools of thought on adjusting. One way is to tighten it till the noise has gone the back out the adjuster 1/4 turn. Adjust little by little till noise has just gone. Or tighten adjuster completely then then turn out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If you have over tightened you will feel a difference in the way the power comes on. Then with the new bolt, screw in down finger tight then lock it with the nut. The problem with the adjuster is it backs itself out by vibration, so the longer one stops this. Best thing for everyone that owns an mt/fz, is you take it in so then maybe with the number of repairs there maybe recalls.

 

[PaulG]

Take out the 10mm bolt and get alonger one with a nut. Under that bolt there is a threaded adjuster with an allen key. Can't remember what size allen key. There are several schools of thought on adjusting. One way is to tighten it till the noise has gone the back out the adjuster 1/4 turn. Adjust little by little till noise has just gone. Or tighten adjuster completely then then turn out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If you have over tightened you will feel a difference in the way the power comes on. Then with the new bolt, screw in down finger tight then lock it with the nut. The problem with the adjuster is it backs itself out by vibration, so the longer one stops this. Best thing for everyone that owns an mt/fz, is you take it in so then maybe with the number of repairs there maybe recalls.

It would be best to tighten the adjuster until the noise stops - with the engine running ,of course.The tension on the cam chain varies over two crank rotations and unless you can determine what part of the cycle the cam drive is at,tightening the adjuster by feel is fairly meaningless.You can over tighten it or leave it too loose and not really know.Having it too tight is definitely,potentially damaging.If you have it so tight that it affects the power output,I suggest you either hit the kill switch immediately or run.

 

[tox]

I thought having the engine running would be obvious. But

 

[psychoattractor]

I'll pass on fixing it myself thanks, getting quite used to the bike sounding like a 20yr old diesel taxi...?


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