Swingarm marks


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Phlewc

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Now I know that marks on the swing arm for chain adjustment are never exactly right, but generally they are not bad as a guide. I reckon that the Tracer however is horrendous.

Add to this that the centre stand gets in the way of doing a traditional string line, there central frame pivot hasn't got holes to use an abba stand and it is a real struggle to get true alignment.

I ended up rigging up a straight edge and measuring the chain to rear sprocket alignment.

Anyone else have the same problem with the marks being shocking? How did you align yours?
 
fizzy

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Phlewc said:
Now I know that marks on the swing arm for chain adjustment are never exactly right, but generally they are not bad as a guide. I reckon that the Tracer however is horrendous.

Add to this that the centre stand gets in the way of doing a traditional string line, there central frame pivot hasn't got holes to use an abba stand and it is a real struggle to get true alignment.

I ended up rigging up a straight edge and measuring the chain to rear sprocket alignment.

Anyone else have the same problem with the marks being shocking? How did you align yours?
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Most bikes are a mile out I have always measured mine from the swining arm pivot to the centre of the wheel spindle, until I tried some straight edges from the back wheel to the font, mine was 25mm out and checked some of my mates on different bikes anything from 10 to 25mm out,don't trust you chain adjuster marks
 
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Phlewc

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Will check that out, never tried that one.
 
Kinjane

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What I call the frame method - as can be seen the center stand does not get in the way and you only need to take the time to do it correctly once. The bike is perfectly upright and in gear to stop it rolling about.

A temporary frame is assembled using two straight edges and two pieces of wood slightly less than the width of the rear tyre. It's perfectly balanced with the help of some 4x2" and a couple of spanners sitting on the top of it at the back.

If one of the wheel adjusters is moved in or out by just one flat the front end of the wooden frame will float quite freely either to the left or right. Once alignment has been obtained and rechecked with the rear wheel spindle nut tightened, you can then take a base line reading with your verniers.

On mine there is a difference of 1.05mm between the lengths of exposed threads on the adjusting bolts. Providing that difference is maintained then no matter how far back the wheel is moved the original wheel alignment accuracy will be retained.


 
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