Rear wheel not tracking/following front wheel perfectly


R6owdlad

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Anyone had this situation?
If I place two long straight edges against the rear tyres and then measure the gap from this edge to the front tyre I have a gap of 1/2 inch on near side and 1 1/2 inch on the offside-a difference of about an inch overall. The straight edges I am using are not flexing and aren't touching anything like the silencer or stand.
My pal also has an MT09 and he has a difference of about 1/2 inch overall.
There doesn't appear to be any problem with handling but I guess the gap on either side of the front tyre to the straight edge should be equal.
Anyone any thoughts before I return to dealer for him to check it out? Hope I've explained this clearly.
Thanks folks...
 

stevecbr

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sounds like your wheels aren't in line, which is common if you rely on standard chain adjusters.
I use a vernier caliper to set the chain adjusters to match each side to equal distances.
Your wheels need to in a straight line to get the best handling and long chain life.
Does this explain it?
 

R6owdlad

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sounds like your wheels aren't in line, which is common if you rely on standard chain adjusters.
I use a vernier caliper to set the chain adjusters to match each side to equal distances.
Your wheels need to in a straight line to get the best handling and long chain life.
Does this explain it?
Thanks.
The wheels are in line but slightly offset ie the dead centre of the rear wheel isn't exactly dead centre following the front wheel if you know what I mean-a bit difficult to explain...
 

Kinjane

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Thanks.
The wheels are in line but slightly offset ie the dead centre of the rear wheel isn't exactly dead centre following the front wheel if you know what I mean-a bit difficult to explain...
That's happens when your wheels are out of alignment !

With a 180mm wide tyre on the back and a 120mm wide tyre on the front you should (theoretically) have a gap of 30mm either side of the front tyre, ie 30+30=60.
With the rear wheel out of alignment you could have 20+40 10+50 or any combination of figures making up the 60mm total.
IF the total is different to 60mm it's because where the straight edge was put against the tyre, the outer edge of the tyre was not running true to the rim and that discrepancy has been exaggerated down the length of the bike.

A quick check to see if the rear wheel is running fairly true (notwithstanding error due to sprocket run-out) is to look at the rear sprocket and inner chain plates. You should be able to see daylight down either side of the sprocket teeth. If the wheel is running at an angle the chain plates will be running against one side of the sprocket.
 
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LewFZ1

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sounds like your wheels aren't in line, which is common if you rely on standard chain adjusters.
I use a vernier caliper to set the chain adjusters to match each side to equal distances.
Your wheels need to in a straight line to get the best handling and long chain life.
Does this explain it?
I agree I always check with a Vernier, if you don't have one you could use a set of Calipers. Keep an eye out when in Lidl or Aldi I picked an electronic readout one up earlier this year, the old eyes are not what they once were.
 

fizzy

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Anyone had this situation?
If I place two long straight edges against the rear tyres and then measure the gap from this edge to the front tyre I have a gap of 1/2 inch on near side and 1 1/2 inch on the offside-a difference of about an inch overall. The straight edges I am using are not flexing and aren't touching anything like the silencer or stand.
My pal also has an MT09 and he has a difference of about 1/2 inch overall.
There doesn't appear to be any problem with handling but I guess the gap on either side of the front tyre to the straight edge should be equal.
Anyone any thoughts before I return to dealer for him to check it out? Hope I've explained this clearly.
Thanks folks...
I never trust the standard adjusters after using a set of straight edges on my bikes the 1/2 inch out on the mt seems to be the normal I have checked mine and 3 mates and the were between 25mm and 10 mm out ,and the same on a mates ducati and bmw ,I got a set of manxton straight edges and now use them every time I adjust the chain

Hope this helps ,,,if you do get some don't tell your friends you become very popular :p
 

R6owdlad

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I agree I always check with a Vernier, if you don't have one you could use a set of Calipers. Keep an eye out when in Lidl or Aldi I picked an electronic readout one up earlier this year, the old eyes are not what they once were.

Where do you measure please?
Any chance of a pic?
Cheers!
 

LewFZ1

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Where do you measure please?
Any chance of a pic?
Cheers!
Have fitted a Tutoro chain oiler-dsc_0991-jpg
I measure from were the adjusting screw bolt head backs onto the swing arm up to the front of the chain adjusting plate , hopefully there is a photo attached, failing that check out my post when I fitted my Turbo Oiler. Obviously do the same on the brake side.
 

Kinjane

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This is how I check wheel alignment. Time consuming but accurate and only needs to be done once if you mark the adjusters afterwards and also know the difference in length
between the exposed section of the chain adjusters so you can replicate alignment each time. The two straight edges are clamped either end at the same width as the rear tyre.
.


The front shim was put there to give exactly 2mm difference between the exposed length of my chain adjusting bolts (easier to remember than the original length)
and the rear one locks the axle head tightly in place to keep rotational pressure point damage to a minimum.
.
 

flydnb

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Without being rude but isn't this anal , I use standard blocks and its fine .
 

Kinjane

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When they get taken off (and the OEM pewter blocks go back on) those aftermarket bits will hopefully be as good as new. For some reason damaged R&G parts don't attract that much interest on £bay) I've since taken the 'ears' off the shims so they're now almost invisible :)

I'll fess up to a bit of OCD but not the Anal :eek:
Did you notice those straight edges are actually balancing to give more accurate feedback at the front end...
 

flydnb

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Mine feels fine without all that woodwork , ive adjusted my chain twice and its not been a big problem I always make sure its well lubed and cleaned its fine , the chain hardly needed adjustment anyway its in pretty good nick still , only thing you need on the MT is a paddock stand to do it quick .
 

R6owdlad

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Thanks for all your input folks. Have now sorted it using two straight lengths and have got it spot on. One thing I would concur with is that you can't rely on the marks on the swing arm...in fact think it's a waste of time them being there!
 


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