Chain tension again

[Big dog]

Hi guys .

Just tightened my chain to manufactures instructions. I have seen a few posts about chain tensioners deforming when tightening rear wheel . I've had three attempts now , and each time the left hand side task turned slightly after I tighten wheel nut . Some of my other bikes have had a hex inside spindle , but not on MT09 . Anyone know of anyway to stop this happening ?

Thanks for any help .

 

[stevecbr]

mine are all deformed now, but I think if you were to pack the small gap with something think like a butchered feeler gauge it should stop it happening

 

[highlander]

Are you happy you have the left side lock nut and adjuster tight when you put some of the torque on the single nut?
What I mean is I would get it adjusted, tighten spindle a little then recheck adjusters are firmly in place before torquing it up the rest.
But that is in general, I got the Gilles adjusters ASAP and had no problems like this with them.

 

[Big dog]

Yep sure they are tight , bit pissed off on a brand new bike . Have just ordered gilles today , so will fit them next week when they arrive . Surprised at chain tension and torque too .

 

[chump]

I reckon that chain tension is way too tight. You really need to check it with you sat on the bike.

 

[LewFZ1]

If you are following the book and recommended chain tension as in 5mm, if I were you I would not ride the bike down the road. Get it adjusted to about 25mm and it will be fine. The 5mm stated in the book is obviously a typo as is the torque setting for the axle nut.

 

[Big dog]

If you are following the book and recommended chain tension as in 5mm, if I were you I would not ride the bike down the road. Get it adjusted to about 25mm and it will be fine. The 5mm stated in the book is obviously a typo as is the torque setting for the axle nut.

I agree with you on both , although when I asked in local yam dealers they said that both figures were correct . I also had a wiggle at the chain on a brand new MT waiting on its new owner , chain was rediculously tight ( in my eyes ) . I adjusted my chain to 20mm , and it seems fine .

 

[Big dog]

I agree with you on both , although when I asked in local yam dealers they said that both figures were correct . I also had a wiggle at the chain on a brand new MT waiting on its new owner , chain was rediculously tight ( in my eyes ) . I adjusted my chain to 20mm , and it seems fine .

OK, went down to local yam dealers today, and had a chat . They actually back off the chains on new bikes . The bike I looked at I there yesterday was actually not ready to go out (apologies) . They say I have adjusted my chain correctly t, 20/25mm ( according to my measurements) . Maybe the problem is interpretation of what it says in manual . Basically what Fz1lew says is correct .

 

[Deleted member 2690]

Bought mine yesterday and chain way too slack about 35mm. Read book saw the 5-15mm and phoned shop who were adamant that their pdi setting was correct....so I phoned yammy they said the figures in the book were correct and it was because the bike has horizontal rear shock and that the pivots are almost in line when setup hung from the centre stand? I too checked new bikes and found them tight +++ so I have set mi e on centre stand to about 10mm of slack.

 

[LewFZ1]

Excuse me what centre stand would that be ? I have just adjusted my chain for the second time since I got the bike 10,000 miles on her now and I am sticking to my 25mm adjustment.

 

[chump]

presumably a Tracer, but anyhow slack needs checking with rider compressing suspension.

 

[LewFZ1]

So a two man job then,

 

[chump]

no. sit on the bike and bend down to check it.

 

[LewFZ1]

Try doing that at 68, I am as flexible as some one with rigor mortis, I will stick with my method.

 

[bobh]

Trouble is, as you bend down to check it, you automatically seem to take weight off the seat, so the chain goes slacker.

So - best advise is - do it once with a heavy mate on the pillion seat, leaving a little bit of slack. Then check what the slack is with the bike on the side stand, and adjust it to that in future.

When I collected my bike the chain was way too tight, and I got the shop to slacken it off before I even rode away. Then I backed it off a bit more when I got home. I hate to think how much damage has been done to chains, bearings etc. on bikes belonging to non-engineering-minded people who trust their dealers.

I reckon 20-25mm is about right, and is similar to other bikes I've had, e.g. my Fazer 8. My method is to have the chain with a bit of extra slack, nip up the axle nut (maybe 40 Nm - never actually checked), then adjust it to the right slack with the adjuster bolts, but don't tighten the locknuts just yet, as that will push the wheel back a bit more, torque up the axle nut, then finally nip up, but don't over-tighten, the adjuster locknuts. Seems to work for me, anyway.

 

[Laffli]

I spoke to my local dealer and he said when they get the bikes come in the chains are set really tight and they slacken them off when they pdi them. He said about 15mm slack when sitting on bike.

 

[Deleted member 2690]

OK first of all I am from engineering backround and have argued the case with yammy...they are absolutely firm in their response that the chain should be done "as per manual" ie on centre stand no load rear wheel floating (not on ground) with max 15mm of slack! I have sat my mate on the bike and it is tight + not comfortable with this it currently has 20mm slack....thx for input.

FYI the demo bike I took out, that they said had been backed off, had about 10mm of slack on it when I revisited the shop the other day...?

 

[Shaun64]

I would say you need at least 25mm of slack for the suspension to work correctly,mines set at 25-30 mm and thats were it's stopping,my dealer Padgetts's (race team IOM) told me 25-30mm.

 

[Kinjane]

To avoid any doubt as to the correct minimum measurement required simply remove your shock, adjust the chain slack so the swinging arm still retains unrestricted movement throughout its full range and then use your own repeatable method to duplicate that figure whenever the chain requires adjustment after gaining sufficient wear to require adjustment.

 

[LewFZ1]

To avoid any doubt as to the correct minimum measurement required simply remove your shock, adjust the chain slack so the swinging arm still retains unrestricted movement throughout its full range and then use your own repeatable method to duplicate that figure whenever the chain requires adjustment after gaining sufficient wear to require adjustment.

I honestly thought this was posted on the 1st of April (Simply remove your shock) you have to be taking the micky.