exhaust project...


ToastedBlue

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this came today, all the way from Ohio, a bargain at £138 including post and import duty :D

10270629_10205288444951976_7395732765674719809_n[1].jpg

a lot of cutting and welding, some perforated tube, wadding, black paint and carbon fibre to follow :)
 

the voices

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this came today, all the way from Ohio, a bargain at £138 including post and import duty :D

View attachment 2440

a lot of cutting and welding, some perforated tube, wadding, black paint and carbon fibre to follow :)
i got one gathering dust was going to cut out a section on the top to see how far the main pipe goes into the box. nice one.
 

stevecbr

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Great, let us know the layout inside the exhaust. I would be great if you could stick a 30cm metal drill bit down the outlet and make it a bit louder, which is a common and cheap mod on the FZ6
 

PaulMT-09

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Keep us updated with lots of pics. I'm quite handy with a tig welder and was wanting to try cutting the guts out of mine as well.
 

ToastedBlue

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plan is to cut about 100mm out of the middle leaving just 1 bracket (nearest the heatshield), gut everything, weld in some perforated pipe, surround it with wadding and weld the far side back on, making the whole box about 1/2 the size of the original.
might remove some from the bottom so it's level(ish) with the bottom of the heatshield, all depends on what we find inside.
I will take picks of everything... if I remember :)
 

the voices

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plan is to cut about 100mm out of the middle leaving just 1 bracket (nearest the heatshield), gut everything, weld in some perforated pipe, surround it with wadding and weld the far side back on, making the whole box about 1/2 the size of the original.
might remove some from the bottom so it's level(ish) with the bottom of the heatshield, all depends on what we find inside.
I will take picks of everything... if I remember :)
that is 100% THE SAME AS I want to do, every time i go in the garage i look at it and think the same.
 

ToastedBlue

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quick update...

made a start on dismantling the exhaust, it's a lot more complicated than I thought it would be and a lot more welding will be needed as I don't have the tools, just a 4" angle grinder with stainless steel cutting disks... unfortunately I ran out of the 1mm stainless disks and had to revert to metal 3mm steel disks which shite in comparison...
oh, and sorry about the size of the images, couldn't work out how to shrink them


https://www.dropbox.com/s/jaj9w5wmrzxiprn/DSC_0633.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/031kwiobnjn05lj/DSC_0636.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fw6lkoc9dywdv0a/DSC_0637.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rth8gjawasr9bk2/DSC_0640.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/67zzjqlg3wbyya7/DSC_0643.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b0w4ax9i83nmx7g/DSC_0645.jpg?dl=0

I've left it like that for now, have to go see my mechanic mate to help with removing the internal gubbings
 
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Triple Trouble

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Looks very complicated...! I wud of made it into a very elaborate jigsaw by now with that angle grinder pmsl
 

ToastedBlue

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Thanks for that. Its clearly not a simple job of drilling out the baffle then!
nope, it's not that complicated though, now I've done it that is

mark your cut lines around the silencer as a guide and cut with a 4inch angle grinder with 1mm stainless steel blade, gives the best results. I removed 65mm.
main thing then is to cut around the welds that hold the 2 plates that the internal pipework runs through... 4 on inner side, 3 on outser side and couple top and bottom I think.
you can then lift the inner section off.
make a scratch cut along the 2" pipe and silencer box so you can line it up later
then cut around the silencer box just inside the welding where the 2" downpipes collector enters it, just enough to cut through the box without cutting the pipe itself, and cut the rear 35mm exit pipe flush with the cut edge of the box
then slide the downpipes forward (with a bit of leverage and bashing on the inside gubbings and twisting as the cat isn't welded in and should slide throught the flat plate) until the cat stopped them going any further, and cut the 2" pipe close to the box so you have enough to play with when you reasemble it. you can see this on the 1st photo, gives an extra 40mm of pipe to work with.
then remove the internals or if it won't move forward take the internals out first leaving just the cat, which is what we actually did.

hope that all makes sense

that's it for a few days as my mate (the welder) is busy
 
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ToastedBlue

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well, my mate got carried away, was meant to start this on Tuesday but he couldn't wait so made a start without me...











it's just tacked together for now but looks pretty freekin good I think :)
 

Impostor1981

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I understand that you will put mt on the dyno and get a custom map done. Right??
 

lee1980

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Interesting is the aim to keep the stock pipe and looks but liberate a bit of noise/power?
 

ToastedBlue

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Interesting is the aim to keep the stock pipe and looks but liberate a bit of noise/power?
that's the idea Lee, I like the look of the stock pipe although it will have some colour changes when finished,
my mate recons it will be very loud as there's no room for a DB killer... good thing or not ? we shall see :)
 

lee1980

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that's the idea Lee, I like the look of the stock pipe although it will have some colour changes when finished,
my mate recons it will be very loud as there's no room for a DB killer... good thing or not ? we shall see :)
Ripping, I like the tail pipe and down pipes but that huge bulge is not best, but then if this is costing you not very much cant complain!
hehe might be a tad loud then! I have just learnt full arrow coming with mine, does not come with CAT so be straight through so even with baffle be pretty loud I bet. I was told emissions not tested so do not need CAT.
 

Impostor1981

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Toasted blue, will you be taking orders if this works out to be quality mode???
 


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