Suspension /bike setup

[fizzy]

Just a quick post to let everyone up north that I have had my bike suspension and wheel alignment set up by Weardale Racing,I was going to go down the route of getting some new suspension for the MT but after talking to Ian he suggested setting the bike up for my weight and riding style, he went through the bike checking wheel alignment using his jig (it was 10 mm out!) Don't trust your chain tensioner guides, set up the brake and cluch leaver, back brake and gear change for me and set font and rear compression and rebound,the guy really knows his stuff and it has transformed the handling of the bike,well worth th £50 he charges if anyone is interested he has a Facebook page Weardale Racing or can be contacted on 0787 9497623

 

[ToastedBlue]

just out of interest, what weight are you and what are the preload settings ?

 

[fizzy]

15 st, the back is on full and the front 2 rings showing

 

[ToastedBlue]

hmmm, interesting, I'm 13 stone and for fast road I have no rings showing on front, rear is on 6, or was, I dialed down front and rear because the weather has been shite here lately, but change it back if/when it's dry

 

[Locksmith]

hmmm, interesting, I'm 13 stone and for fast road I have no rings showing on front, rear is on 6, or was, I dialed down front and rear because the weather has been shite here lately, but change it back if/when it's dry

With no rings showing on the front that is fully stiff. Would that not be best for wet weather?
Would you not want it softer for wet riding?
Or am I a twonk who has got it arse about face

 

[ToastedBlue]

softer for wet weather

 

[colinlinz]

The pre-load won't make it any softer or harder, just lift the unloaded bike up higher or lower. It allows you to compensate for times that you may have extra load like a pillion or luggage. With the pre-load wound up correctly, when you and the extra luggage or passenger are on, the bike won't sink too low. Changes to ride height, from front to rear change the steering geometry by altering the front trail measurement. If you wind the pre-load up, you will still have the same compressed spring length as before, and by virtue, the same spring strength/rate. All that happens is the bike sits a little higher.

 

[ToastedBlue]

The pre-load won't make it any softer or harder,

adjusting the preload changes the initial force required to compress the spring, effectively stiffening (or softening) the suspension, making it a firmer (or softer) ride

 

[colinlinz]

adjusting the preload changes the initial force required to compress the spring, effectively stiffening (or softening) the suspension, making it a firmer (or softer) ride

Sorry Toasted Blue, but it doesn't; well not until you have topped your suspension out at ride height. It is true to say that as you compress a spring, it will build more resistance to compression. e.g. a .8kgmm spring will increase its resistance to load by .8kg every 1mm of compression. This isn't what happens on your bike. When you sit on the bike the spring will collapse to a given compressed length. If you then wind the preload up, the compressed length of the spring doesn't change, but the forks or shock will extend upwards and restore your initial ride height. It is a poorly understood area of suspension adjustment, that isn't helped by some owners manuals still poorly explaining the function of pre-load adjustment. If you need heavier or lighter rated springs, you have to change to them. You can soften the suspension a little for wet weather by reducing your low speed compression damping (if you have it).

 

[Locksmith]

I remember the days when you just got on a bike and rode it

 

[colinlinz]

I remember the days when you just got on a bike and rode it

It's easy to do so these days. Sometimes we get caught up in having to get the best, rather than just riding and making the most of what we have. To be realistic, even crap bikes today can be ridden pretty quickly.

In 2005 I took my 1978 Ducati 900GTS on a track day. It's only mods being clip-on's, Imola tank, SS fairing and seat, and slightly wider tyres (f110, r130). The tyres were Bridgstone 45's an old school cross ply design. I was surprised just how quickly I could go in comparison to the other more modern bikes. In fact I was faster than many of them. It really drove home to me how even the most basic design could be quite effective, and while the newer suspension was far more comfortable and better, you could still make do quite well with some pretty rudimentary suspension.

https://flic.kr/p/9vgXC3

 

[alan_manic]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBlvTkQdO6c

 

[donut]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBlvTkQdO6c

I suggest that you DO NOT follow the instructions on the video and instead do a web search on "static sag" and how it should be set. Something like this:

How to set suspension sag | MCN

Damping, whether rebound or compression, should be set to your personal preference and something like as fast a response as possible BUT still in control i.e. not too fast on rebound or it'll have the bars kicking bar too quickly and not too soft on compression or the front end will be diving too much.

So, google it, read a few to make sure they say the same, get a mate to help and follow the instructions.

If you are not able to do it yourself either find someone who does understand it or take it to a suspension specialist. Any money spent should be well worthwhile.

Oh, and if you do attempt to change/alter your suspension - make a note of the settings that you had before you start so that you have a base to go back to if it doesn't work.

 

[DavidB]

..........as many have indicated........front two rings rebound one turn from max.........rear one notch from full rebound half a turn from max...........14st and I am experiencing a completely new bike.........honest!

 

[Triple Trouble]

..........as many have indicated........front two rings rebound one turn from max.........rear one notch from full rebound half a turn from max...........14st and I am experiencing a completely new bike.........honest!

Yep.....
Took me a few weeks to come up with those settings but they seem to work for most people around that weight mark

 

[motorcycleboy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBlvTkQdO6c

When i had the stock springs i'd set the REB at half a turn from full soft and i enjoied cornering.. off course the cornering become easier and quicker after ohlins 90kg/mm springs installation.
But on the weak stock front springs 75kg/mm (mines were on 73.5kg/mm when the specialist rate them after 16.000km) softening the rebound is only good to avoid "pogo-stick" phainomenon.
On ohlins i've let the stock yamaha rebound suggestion and is OK !