To change the oil............ it's in the service manual but............... remove the fork legs, remembering to loosen the fork caps while the leg is held in the bottom yoke.
1 leg at a time - completely unscrew the fork cap. Compress the spring so that you can release the cinch nut on the damper rod below the cap. Unscrw the fork cap. Decompress the spring. Remove the spacer. Remove the spring. Invert the leg and pour out the old oil. With the leg held pointing slightly downhill pump the damper rod repeatedly until all the old oil is out.
When you do this DO NOT hold the leg by the outer stanchion, hold it by the "foot" ie the brake caliper bracket otherwise the inner will fall out of the outer!!!!!
When you are satisfied that all the oil is out hold the leg vertically by the foot in a soft jawed vice.
Pour in approx. 400ml of oil. Pump the damper rod until you hear that all the air is bled out. Add more oil then remove using the level setting tool to set the correct height. Pump the damper rod a dozen more times and recheck the level. Top up and adjust as required.
Insert the spring and spacer. Compress the spring, pulling up on the damper rod so that the fork cap can be screwed on. Set the rebound damping screw if applicable. Tighten the cinch nut. Check the damping adjustment again. Decompress the spring and tighten the fork cap into the leg. Check the damping adjustment again cos you'll be pissed if it's wrong when the forks are back on the bike.
Fit the leg back into the yokes. Tighten the bottom yoke first so you can nip up the top cap. Replace all the front end.
Maxton internals will be lovely and miles better than thicker oil only - the compression damping on the stock fork is non existent. The GP Suspension valve kit is excellent and less than half the price of Maxton kit. Others offer valving kits and full replacement cartridges too.
1 leg at a time - completely unscrew the fork cap. Compress the spring so that you can release the cinch nut on the damper rod below the cap. Unscrw the fork cap. Decompress the spring. Remove the spacer. Remove the spring. Invert the leg and pour out the old oil. With the leg held pointing slightly downhill pump the damper rod repeatedly until all the old oil is out.
When you do this DO NOT hold the leg by the outer stanchion, hold it by the "foot" ie the brake caliper bracket otherwise the inner will fall out of the outer!!!!!
When you are satisfied that all the oil is out hold the leg vertically by the foot in a soft jawed vice.
Pour in approx. 400ml of oil. Pump the damper rod until you hear that all the air is bled out. Add more oil then remove using the level setting tool to set the correct height. Pump the damper rod a dozen more times and recheck the level. Top up and adjust as required.
Insert the spring and spacer. Compress the spring, pulling up on the damper rod so that the fork cap can be screwed on. Set the rebound damping screw if applicable. Tighten the cinch nut. Check the damping adjustment again. Decompress the spring and tighten the fork cap into the leg. Check the damping adjustment again cos you'll be pissed if it's wrong when the forks are back on the bike.
Fit the leg back into the yokes. Tighten the bottom yoke first so you can nip up the top cap. Replace all the front end.
Maxton internals will be lovely and miles better than thicker oil only - the compression damping on the stock fork is non existent. The GP Suspension valve kit is excellent and less than half the price of Maxton kit. Others offer valving kits and full replacement cartridges too.
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